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From: tal i Category: Art Date: 15 July 2007 Time: 05:10 AM Review: In florences shadow, not bad as a bourgeois base, 20 mins from the big F. The historic center has the usual dumbo cathedral filled with masterpieces and anxious attendants. The whole is quite perfect, surrounded by a high wall and protected on one side by a river filled with fish and flanked by the occasional heroin addict. At night babies and teenagers come out to play, strutting their gelled up hair, hotpants, and smashing the occasional bottle to release the stress of being so blessed. The trattoria Lapo, piazza mercatale, is the pinnacle of basic gutsy tuscan cooking. They start you with a platter of cold meats, pure fat on little bagel like breads, a kind of pate, and some artichoke hearts if you're lucky. Then the kindly waiter will offer you tortelloni, tortelli, ravioli or something similar. There are the same sauces every night: arabbiata, ragu, or tomato, with a guest star like sage and butter to keep you on your toes. Next is the secondo, which can involve between two and four choices served with roast potatoes or beans. Highlights are pork ribs and pork shin (stinco) all crustily grilled with rosemary and the ooze of fat to mop up with your bread. Other mains may include smoked cheese (boring), slices of steak (dull), roast chicken in beer? (good), a kebab (ok), or a stew (dull too). Go for something arrosto. Finish with a piece of ricotta cheesecake if they have it and an espresso. On the corner opposite Lapo is a good icecream parlour, and you can see them making the creamy stuff if you peak through the window round the block. Why is Italian icecream so soft and gentle, and why doesn't someone open up a genuine italian place here? A million pound idea. After your icecream proceed to a bar which DJs rocky music, and has charming staff in rock outfits and where you may observe the youths lounging round the square. The juxtaposition will prove charming. Other highlights include a trip to the mountains which delightfully backdrop the town in green or an adventure in underwear in one of the many shops pushing pants. Recommended before we destroy it.